Iguana Care

Iguana Care

Most veterinary problems in iguanas are a direct result of poor husbandry. This sheet provides the basic information you will need to keep your iguana happy and healthy.

BRIEF HISTORY

Iguanas are large, egg laying, semi-arboreal lizards. They can be found from Mexico into Brazil, generally living within 50 meters of a water source. Iguanas reach adult size in 2 to 3 years and can live 10 - 15 years if properly fed and cared for. They eat leaves, fruit, flowers of select herbs, shrubs, trees and vines.

DIET

Captive diets for green iguanas are just beginning to be understood. Feed as wide a variety of foods as possible and do not rely on any one food for the bulk of the diet.

Herbivorous reptiles should consume rations low in fats, oils and protein, rich in minerals and vitamins, high in fiber, and adequate in water content. Accordingly, adult iguana rations should include 80% vegetables (particularly the dark leafy greens described below), 10% fruits and 10% protein-based foods. Young growing animals can be fed slightly more of the protein-based foods (up to 15% of the total ration). Foods listed in bold print have a positive calcium to phosphorus ratio and should provide the bulk of the diet. Iguanas are foliovores (leaf eaters) in the wild, so it seems reasonable to feed them lots of leafy greens with a dark green color. Dark leafy greens that are rich in calcium include collard, mustard and turnip tops or greens, alfalfa or timothy hay, broccoli rabe (leaves and stems from the broccoli plant) and dandelions (flower, stems and leaves). These should provide the bulk of the diet. Other dark leafy greens include Swiss chard, clover, kale, beet greens, escarole, parsley, spinach, watercress, savoy, and kohlrabi. Leafy greens with a light green color, such as all types of lettuce (including romaine), have minimal mineral content and are not considered a dark leafy green. Other types of vegetables include alfalfa, radish, clover and bean sprouts, soaked alfalfa pellets, asparagus, bell peppers, carrots, cucumbers, green beans, jicama, mushrooms, okra, shredded parsnips, peas and pea pods, prickly pear cactus pads (shave off the spines), shredded summer or winter squashes, sweet potatoes, soybeans, and uncooked thawed frozen mixed vegetables (corn, green beans, lima beans, peas, carrots). Cabbage, broccoli, brussels sprouts, bok choy, cauliflower, kale and other members of the cabbage family can cause thyroid problems and should be fed in moderate amounts. Spinach, beets and swiss chard should be fed in moderation and rhubarb should not be fed at all.

Fruits, in general are mineral poor yet iguanas will eat them preferentially over more nutritious foods. Think of fruit as more of a treat that can be given from time to time. Figs are one of the few fruits rich in calcium. Apples, apricots, dates, grapes, kiwis, melons, mangoes, peaches, papayas, pears, plums, prunes, raisins, star fruit, strawberries, tomatoes and raspberries are all fine in small amounts. Bananas can be fed, but have very little calcium.

Protein is also important. Dry dog chow, Purina trout chow, monkey chow or Hikari cichlid pelleted fish chow, pelleted parrot chows, whole gold fish, drained whole sardines (the bones are rich in calcium) soaked dry legumes (beans), tofu, pizza, hard boiled eggs, insects and commercial reptile diets are all important in small amounts. All dry chows should be soaked in water for at least fifteen minutes until softened and then drained prior to adding to the salad. Do not use growth or performance dog foods. Avoid cat food and semi-moist dog foods because they are too high in protein, fat and vitamin D and low in fibre.

Calcium and Multivitamin Supplementation are an important part of the iguana diet. At every feeding, sprinkle a light dusting of calcium carbonate, lactate, or gluconate on the salad. Iguana diets tend to contain excess phosphorus, so calcium supplements with phosphorus are not recommended. Vitamin D-free calcium sources are recommended. Do not over supplement with calcium. A fine dusting is all that is required. If the iguana won't eat the salad once dusted with calcium, too much calcium is being added. Try putting a little less on, or mixing the calcium into the salad more. All iguanas will eventually eat salads dusted with calcium. Omitting calcium will cause metabolic bone disease. If the iguana eats the variety of chows in the protein portion it should get plenty of multivitamins. On days when no chows are present in the salad you can provide a very light dusting of good quality reptile or bird multivitamin. Multivitamins should be given no more than two to four times per month. Multivitamins given more frequently than this can cause problems with vitamin D toxicity that is irreversible and often fatal.

Variety is the key to a healthy diet! All of the items mentioned can be found at your local grocery or pet store. It is important that the iguana eats what is offered and not just select foods, mixing the salad well should ensure this. If one is persistent and patient enough, the iguana will start eating a wider variety of foods. Be more stubborn than the iguana.

HOUSING

Owners should invest in a larger aquarium initially or be prepared to buy a large one later. A 20-gallon aquarium is adequate for juveniles, but within a few years most owners must build larger glass, plywood, and screen cages. Provide as much vertical space as is practical to accommodate their arboreal lifestyle.

Ideally you should house iguanas individually in captivity. Unfortunately, this is generally impractical, and it is common for iguanas to be kept in groups. We suggest keeping only those of equal size housed together to avoid injury or death to the smaller iguana. It is not advisable to allow iguanas free roam of the house because of the numerous hazards they can encounter.

The bottom of the cage should be lined with newspaper, large wood chips (large enough that they cannot be eaten) mixed with peat moss and sphagnum moss, orchard bark, alfalfa pellets, or sphagnum moss. Avoid sand, gravel, dirt, kitty litter, bark mulch, crushed corn cobs or crushed walnut shells as substrates because they can cause numerous problems and are difficult to clean.

Hardwood driftwood branches for climbing and basking are appreciated. A water bowl big enough for the iguana to enter and soak also is needed and should be cleaned whenever dirty or at least twice a week. Iguanas need access to water at all times.

Cage temperature should not drop below 75ºF at night and gradually rise to between 85º and 90ºF during the day with a localised hot spot or basking area of 95º to 100ºF. Assuring your iguana a basking area is important for proper digestion. Make sure any heating sources hot enough to burn the iguana are not present inside the cage (anything too hot to rest a hand on or under for several minutes eventually will burn the reptile in addition, a heat source that feels normal to the human hand can cause a burn if an iguana sits on it for a long period of time). Heating sources outside the cage are much safer. Keep the cage humid, but not wet by spraying it several times per week or using a humidifier. Iguanas live in the tropics and enjoy the humidity; it also helps them to shed.

Ultraviolet light is essential for the photochemical production of vitamin D-3. Black lights have more UV irradiance than other fluorescent lights, but produce dim purple visible light. Combine a black light (General Electric) with a vitalite© in a two bulb fixture (less than two feet from the animal) and it will produce brighter visible light. Lighting should be kept on a timer for 12 to 14 hours, so the iguana gets an adequate amount of daylight. Current Studies also show sun lamps to be an excellent source of UV lighting.

Always remember to buy your iguana from a reputable pet store with a knowledgeable staff, preferably one that specialises in reptiles. Avoid iguanas with missing toe nails or toes, thin, listless, nervous iguanas, dark brown or black coloring on the body, nasal discharge or abnormal jaw alignment or white cheese-like paste in the mouth. Missing tails will grow back. Look for iguanas that are alert and active, climbing on branches, eating at food bowl, have bright coloring and are not over excitable. Ask the clerk to trim the iguana's nails prior to taking him home, this will help you to avoid getting scratched when you begin handling him. Consult with your local pet shop as to the best way of handling your iguana as well as for advice on taming.

Good luck and remember with proper care and nutrition, you will enjoy many years with your iguana.